Zardozi

Introduction and Heritage Value

The word 'Zardozi' is comes from two Persian terms, Zar meaning gold and Dozi meaning embroidery. Zardozi is one of the most key components of Persian cultural signs and Handicrafts. It is framed around the country by names such Zar-douzi, Gol-douzi, Kam-douzi, and Kaman-douzi. Persian Zardozi's are three kinds:

·         Some are entirely sewing the basic fabric with Bakhie to create a new sight of pattern and colors, such as Rasht's Qollab-douzi , Baloch's Souzan-douzi and Kerman's Pate-douzi.

·         Some are in dissimilar method sewing with a lesser amount of density of work on original fabric. In this mode they cross the strings throughout the woof of the original fabric and sew this string to each other to make a lattice and colorful pattern. Such as Sekke-douzi and Qollab-douzi in Isfahan.

·         An additional technique is sewing a range of patterns on original fabric with golden and silver strings. Such as Dah-Yek-Douzi (1 of 10 sewing which today is demode), Naqade-douzi, Tafte-douzi, Kous-douzi, Zari-douzi or Golabatoun-douzi

BACKGROUND

Origin and History

Zardosi embroidery can be dated back in India from the time of the Rig Veda. There are several illustrations stating the application of zari embroidery as embellishment on the attire of gods. Originally, the embroidery was prepared with pure silver wires and genuine gold leaves. On the other hand, nowadays, craftsmen apply a mixture of copper wire, with a golden or silver polish, and a silk thread. This is for the reason that there is barely any availability of gold/silver on such a great scale.

Zardosi got recognition in the 17th century, under the patronage of Mughal Emperor Akbar. Though during the rule of Aurangzeb, the royal patronage ceased and this was the reason for decline of the craft. Given that the expenditure was high and raw materials relatively uncommon and sparsely available, craftsmen could not hold on with the work of embroidery by themselves.

Lots of artisans went away from Delhi to the courts of Rajasthan and Punjab in seek work. With the advent of 18th and 19th century which brought about industrialization, the craft underwent yet another setback. In 1947 when India attained its independence the Indian government assumed measures to encourage Zari embroidery.

Present day Scenario

As we know that with the decline of the Mughal era, the art declined for the reason that it had high expenditure and the shortage of valuable metals for the use of embroidery. In the 20th century the art again came into being. In the present day, like a lot of things ,Zardozi too has its restrictions: being sold in the market at a much low priced cost, created out of copper and brass wires plated with gold. The most recent accompaniments are coloured Zardozi with a plastic base. Far more economical, this new Zardozi lasts for a long time and is light in weight to wear.

In few cases the base fabrics have plastic alternatives in place of what was in earlier time’s pure gold and the motifs are so different from the original, that the product does not bear a resemblance to what had at one time amazed guests to the royal courts of India. The opulence of gold might no longer poise the work of Zardozi artisans, but the glitter and glamour continues - expectantly it will for years to come.

Varieties

Presently Zardozi is employed to create beautiful evening dresses, coats; fashion accessories like handbags, purses, shoes, belts; formal embellishment similar to badges and insignia; furnishing accessories like cushion covers, table covers, wall hangings and boxes etc. Some European and American designers have set up workshops in India, which focus in Zardozi work on cushion covers, table linen and even curtains. Zardozi can also be seen in accessories like bangles, headpieces, even shoes.

Faces behind the Craft

Mohammad Bilal, is a zardozi expert craftsman living in Agra. He learnt this craftsmanship form his father who is a Padmashree receiver. According to the view of Mohammad, zardozi in India received its eminence and recognition during the Mughal patronage. Though today, it is an element of high fashion; you see this form of embroidery in European fashion shows. It’s exported to a lot of places. Mohammad had created a zardozi collection for a fashion show held at the Commonwealth Games in Delhi. He named it ‘The Mughal Collection’.

Main Center of Zardozi Embroidery in India

Zardosi embroidery work is largely a specialty of Lucknow where it has developed into a complete brand after being bestowed with the Geographical Indication (GI) registration by Chennai-based Geographical Indication Registry. It is now registered under the brand of Lucknow Zardozi and this registration was acquired by Kalatmak Handicrafts Self Help Group Foundation, Lucknow.
This handicraft has remained conventionally significant and rampant in Lucknow and the six neighbouring districts of Barabanki, Sitapur, Unnao, Rae Bareli, Hardoi and Amethi. Other centres that cater to this art form are Bhopal, Hyderabad, Delhi, Agra, Kashmir, Mumbai, Ajmer and Chennai.

Method of Zardozi Embroidery

The procedure of undertaking Zardozi embroidery begins with the craftsmen sitting cross-legged around the Addaa, the wooden framework, with their tools. The tools comprise of curved hooks, needles, salmaa pieces (gold wires), sitaaras (metal stars), round-sequins, glass & plastic beads, dabkaa (thread) and kasab (thread). The second action in the procedure is to sketch out the design on the cloth, if feasible on fabrics like silk, satin, velvet, etc. The fabric is then stretched over the wooden frame and the embroidery work starts. Needle is utilized to pull out every zardozi component and then, it is incorporated into the fundamental design by pushing the needle into the fabric.